Turbo replacement- remove cab or no?
Needing to replace the turbo and EGR bypass valve. Does anyone have thoughts on removing the cab vs. removing the transmission? I have never removed the turbo on an LML, and I have no Si that covers cab R&I. I am interested in your thoughts and experience, and was surprised to not find anything about this in the archives here or on iATN.
Personally I remove the cab. But I'm really short so…
Caleb, I have not had the pleasure of pulling a cab off for years and years. At that time, we had an overhead crane in the shop and that made the job easy with a couple of big slings. What are you using to lift the cab up with? I have no overhead device. I have thought of putting it on a gate hoist we have and using the hoist to lift the cab while leaving the frame and such at ground level…
Just the regular 2 post lift .the bigger cabs it is safer to strap it to lift .one truck we would probably have not seen the problem if we had not pulled cab..the down pipe bracket had got bent and allowed to pipe to gap open at back of turbo and was leaking ..with cab off you could just see the problem
David, just use the 2 post. Frame and power train stay on the ground.
Cab removal for me. Makes the whole job much easier.
ive done it both ways. the cab removal route is much easier. its not as easy as a Ford cab removal. its a little time consuming but once its off its a lot easier to swap the turbo and EGR components. i pull the bumper and the fender liners and just start disconnecting hoses and connectors. you need to removed the under hood fuse block to disconnect the harness. i also pull the fan and shroud…
I did not remove the bumper, fan, or shroud, and none of them were a problem at all.
I have always removed the cab as well. Makes it much easier and I can do a better job.
I haven't had todo a chevy yet but I know on the ford's it makes life so much easier to pull the cab and on those I would think it would be easier as well not much room under any hood these days
I usually pull the cab as well for head gaskets or turbo have done egr bypass without, do hate the ebrake thou
I have done it without removing the cab or trans… as long as the up pipes come off it’s ok that way otherwise might as well pull the cab
Whichever way make sure you get all of old drain gasket scraped off and you put the cutoff side of gasket the right way ..
Heck yes to that! They flow a ridiculous amount of oil through there, it will made a big puddle fast!
I have never removed the cab to do one. Just finished one yesterday.
I do them cab on and transmission in. The only reason the remove the transmission if to get the down pipe out but you just need to slightly bend the heat shield and the down pipe comes out easy.
I always remove the cab any time I have to access the down pipes coming off the turbo. I just find it way more productive for me. Once you get a cab up a time or 2 it's really not bad. It just opens everything up. Them bolts at the back of the turbo can sometimes be really tight. I never had any issues when i use an impact, but with cab on there isn't room to get a big rachet on them to get the…
I have a super short ½“ impact and that I can fit back behind there to get the bolts loose even with the cab on. Just another method.
Pull the cab as others have mentioned. Just makes life easier & you can do a much better & cleaner job. Not a bad job at all after you have pulled a few. JMHO.
If your shop can live with a dead bay. I strongly suggest cab off. It pays off for time and for your back. Keep the cab in if you have no choice like a canopy that hops over or a Savanah setup. Your back will thank you I promise
Hello Marlin, Lifting a cab for major engine repairs is not that difficult, it can only be overwhelming if you let it be. I prefer to use an open floor 2-post lift, that will allow the entire cab to be lifted high in the air while the chassis stays on the ground. Think of the vehicle has large erector set. They are built/assembled from pre-assembled subcomponents. When I worked at a large…
Hi I have done several cab removals, several tricks that I can add is on 2006 & earlier I leave the ac charged , unbolt the comp and support it with a 2x6 across fenders, bungee the pump to the board, I use 3" x 18" c channel under the cab door sill to spread pressure, I usually remove the fan,
I feel it's personal preference on how much planking you can tolerate 🤪 I don't pull the cab on the LML for anything other than head gaskets or engine R&R.
hi , it seems to me that the one thing that is not coming through clearly to those who never did this that you use a 2 post clear floor lift to lift the cab, the four arms of the 2 post lift do the job very safely!! NO LUMBER STACKS ARE USED, no forklift or other dangerous methods, my previous post ref using c channels to spread pressure on door sill elimanates possibility of bending the door…
I think Kyle was planking was referring to him laying on top of motor to do the work without pulling cab ..lol not useing lumber ..but someone might have used lumber to hold ac compressor up
I invested in a topside creeper specifically for these kind of jobs… I was skeptical and I laughed at it when I first saw it but another mechanic talked me in to getting one and I love the thing.
Older post, I'm sure done already but my opinion matches the minority here, cab removal only for head replacements. And even then rarely, honestly. I typically work through the wheelwells for for head/gasket concerns. Additional note of importance is that GM does not approve of this service procedure. So any work being submitted to GM for payment or approval in any way must not include…
I did lift the cab for this job, but I think that I would do it without next time. Serviceability was not given much emphasis in the design of this engine package, and there are some really terrible designs. One of them is the turbo air inlet, which was installed incorrectly the last time the turbo was replaced; that is not surprising, considering that correct installation is incredibly difficult.