2014 Ford Fusion Overheat 1.5L
The first thing I checked was the charge cooler inside intake, it looks good.
The customer added some coolant before I got it , full on coolant right now.
The car idles for about 10 to 15 minutes then coolant tank starts to bubble
and message on dash for overheat comes on.
Radiater fans are working. Looking at the coolant tank while idling…..
no coolant circulation is noted, WOW, is that a bad t stat or defective water pump?
The auxiliary coolant pump is humming when actuated with scanner…..
What is my next diagnostic step?
I do not see a data pid for cyl head temp, only coolant sensor which appears to be accurate.
head gasket test with 5 gas shows no head gasket issues.
Verify water pump by pulling a heater input hose and idling engine. Should have discharge at idle!!
Dear Darren, Hello! Just to be 100% sure about a gasket. Try cylinder leakage test, and check overflow tank for bubbles.
Hello Darren, As I recall these have a coolant sensor and a head temp sensor. No coolant flow typically points at the main water pump. Also consider that the secondary circulation pump may also have a bad impeller. Ford used plastic impellers that would swell, crack and slip. A thermostat is also recommended. A good FLIR gun would be a plus tracking down issues like this. Only perform a vacuum…
were the plastic impellers on the main water pump or auxiliary? Or both?
Hello Darren, They had them on both, especially the small electric secondary.
If you have a pulse sensor and a lab scope, I would scope out the cooling system.
These suffer hairline fractures in the cylinder liners . Get a borescope down the spark plug holes and inspect
These come equipped with an electromagnetic clutch on the water pump. Its a “NC” type clutch but I have witnessed failed ”Open” cases many times.
I am glad you brought that up, the water pump looks original and the wiring diagram shows a clutch for it. Does it need to be energized for it to work? If it ohms out ok, do I assume its working ?
The clutch is a ”Normally Closed” design. In other words the clutch is engaged and spinning the impeller at all times UNTIL the coil is energized.
My air charge coolant temp sensor stays around 85 degrees f as my coolant sensor climbs to 200 degrees f
Does the engine overheat while driving i personally would be highly suspicious of the long known issue with these blocks and a revise block for them
Darren I’m obviously not paying attention, I read that the engine coolant overheats and there is a message in the cluster to confirm that. However, I now read that your engine coolant temperature is only 200°. I’m confused with this information of 200° coolant temperature but the dash displays an overheat condition.
Dear Darren; I watched a NAPA Autotech Training Webinar the other night in which a block design flaw was described that causes blown head gaskets on the Ecoboost variant 1.5, 1.6 and 2.0. A re-designed block with the passage between the cylinders eliminated and a solid surface was substituted. A search for T.S.B.s or a Recall may be a solution that you should explore to best address this. Best…
Just at that moment in time it was 200 with the air charge coolant sensor being 85 it hits 245 when dash message appears
The CAC temp usually won't change unless the turbo is active…take the t-stat out and observe whether you've got coolant flow at that point. No flow? Then you know where you're headed. What temp. does it eventually get to? 200 ain't overheat.