2007 Honda Civic Crank No Start
Hello fellow mechanics I have this Honda with a crank no start with no codes have 120 psi compression on all cylinders getting spark on all four coils Noid light flashes on all four injectors plugs are fuel soaked it will try and fire a little but will never start up fully I'm wondering if I have too much fuel pressure but I have no way to check this when checking data on scanner have good rpm signal no drop out on that crank sensor checks out ok anyone have any ideas???
Clear flood mode . hold gas pedal to floor and start engine. it will turn the injectors off and car should start, lots of smoke
120 psi is too low for that engine, maybe its washed down and will come back, or maybe it has jumped time.
Hi Barry, Pull a fuel sample and verify it is not contaminated. As another member mentioned, the cylinders are washed down or there is a timing issue. Compression should be up around 200 psig. A cam and crank waveform with a coil synch should very any possible timing issue.
I second checking fuel for contamination. Just because we've had half a dozen cars or so a few weeks ago that the fuel was slightly contaminated with diesel. One of those had so little diesel it ran but misfired. Ate my lunch.
Check fuel. I had a civic in with the same symptom and it was filled with diesel. I took out a spark plug and it was soaked. 10 minutes later it was still soaked sitting on the bench because diesel won't evaporate like gas
Jumped time is the typical cause of low all the way across, those are bad about flooding themselves when “shorthopped” constantly and could just need a clear flood or little shot of brake clean to dry the plugs
Yes, cylinders could be fuel soaked causing low compression. Washes oil off of the cylinders and rings. You can pour a small amount of oil in the cylinders to bring the compression back up so it will start. But, since the plugs are fuel soaked too, the easiest way to fix that is new plugs. But, you only get a few cranks before they become fuel soaked again. Fuel injection will foul plugs out…
… I was thinking like Cmore… Try removing ONE spark plug (at random)… then crank it… doing this will let the excessive exhaust BP out that open plug hole… you might need to put clean/dry plugs in it first… If it starts …Cmore was correct …restricted exhaust…. if it can't get OUT… it won't let it IN… This has worked for me on more than one occasion… Try it. You might be pleasantly surprised… Much…
… This …"it will try and fire a little but will never start up fully" … is what got my attention … Dan H. … Hobbs.
I use my plastic caps for my smoke machine. I use the right size to totally block the throttle body. I install old fashioned vacuum gauge in a large vacuum source on the manifold. Crank engine. Should have a healthy 15+ inches of pull after cranking for just a little while. If so, the mechanical side can move air. If it's way low, the engine cannot breathe. Either timing or cat.
Hey guys so I dried out the cylinders put a little oil on top of the cylinders put the plugs back in and it started up and ran fine until I gave it some throttle when it came back down to idle it cut off rechecked the plugs and they were fuel soaked again it ran for about 15 min before I gave it some throttle and it died I think I'm looking at a fuel problem here too much fuel pressure I have…
Hi Barry, Be sure the exhaust has good air flow before you go chasing a fuel pressure issue. I do not recall seeing a “too high” of a fuel pressure issue before. Unbolt at the manifold to pipe if possible or take the upstream O2 sensor out to allow exhaust an exit. Is the engine oil a little high and thin from fuel wash? Have you checked for fuel contamination? A couple raw eggs in a fuel tank…
If you can get it running again, try to keep it running above idle and hold it there. What is happening to the trims, and vacuum on the engine? If you've got some high fuel pressure (I'm doubtful this is an issue, but what the hey, right?), then the trims should be negative in a big way. And, if it IS high pressure (high enough to kill the engine), then why are your eyes not watering from all…
Barry Powell, this capture is a pressure transducer in a cylinder on startup and it shows the excessive exhaust stroke pressures with a partially plugged cat.
Remover o2 sensor on top of converter tried to start the car still same result not a back pressure problem plugs still loaded with fuel
Check the temp sensor reading. It could have died and it thinks coolant is -20*. That will make it run rich like mad. Next check for air leaks past the MAF if it had one. Any leaks will make it run rich too. Check the bellows, they are prone to crack. Check IAT readings too. Part of the MAF. Make site they are close to accurate at least. A faulty Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor will do it too. Check…
I would check the fuel for any type of contamination. Pump some into a clear container and see if it looks good. Let it sit for 30 minutes too, to see if it separates.
I checked the fuel no contamination I'm going to check fuel pressure in the morning if I can find the correct adapter I have been trying to get my boss to get a scope so I can check cam crank waveforms fuel pulse and such hopefully this car will help me persuade him
… Did you try tossing a MATCH on some … or … pitching some on the concrete floor and watch for it to evaporate fully ??… or … running it on an injection cleaning cannister with fresh fuel in it?… Dan H. … Hobbs.
Hi Dan, I have to laugh because I have used the match test on a poured sample before. It's funny to watch techs run by just a simple test as that. They think you are trying to burn the shop down. Even a 5-minute evaporation test makes them nervous at times. Have you ever run into case with egg whites in the fuel tank? I have. It took two new OEM pumps and to finally empty the tank and wash it…
I checked the fuel on the floor burnt some and watched it evaporate no problems with the fuel in the tank watched my boss throw a fit at the lit gas on the floor good laugh at that currently waiting for snappy to get here so I can get the adaptor line I need other than that I'm still lost with this thing I'm attaching a video of the injectors hooked to the car spraying looks like too much to me
You should burn some known good fuel, along with the Civic fuel sample, to compare. Burn the samples outside of the building. Take note how long each fuel sample burns and look for bubbles in the Civic's fuel sample while it's burning. When it stops burning, look for any oily residue in the Civic's fuel container.
… I was figuring and just THOUGHT you would have had the SENSE to do it OUTSIDE the building… Oh well…so much for figuring… Dan H. … Hobbs.
You could try reading the CTS temps. I am pretty sure there are 2 cts on this car. One in lower radiator and other one in cylinder head. They could be wildly off causing an over fuel issue. Did you try unbolting exhaust to rule out clogged exhaust. I think you could do it at the head easily.
After long checking and testing I found bad grounds all over this car took just about every ground I could find cleaned and replaced turned the key and low and behold it starts and runs great amazing what a ground can do to make you chase your tail thanks for all the input guys
Hi Barry, Glad you got it sorted out. I typically run into ground issues on many makes (Jeeps are the biggest ones) and on equipment alike. The three basic things for many circuits are having Positive, a load such as a light or pump and a return path with is Negative/ Ground. If one is missing, especially a ground, it will search for an alternate path. I can't say I have seen this issue with…