2018 Toyota Immobilizer help
I have a question for those that are familiar with late model Toyota Immobilizer systems. first and foremost this vehicle was flooded at a dealer in Florida and sent to my area to another dealer to repair and run through the auction with a salvage title. They want the vehicles running before they go through the auction. I am mobile and was called in to assist. Right off the bat I had no communication with anything except the OCS system (occasionally). This vehicle was equipped with a Central Gateway module so that got replaced. this restored all of my communication. I then had other issues and found corrosion in Smart Key module. That was also replaced, and I requested a virgin key. Afterwards everything is powering up, the key registered fine, I did the registration between the smart key module/ steering lock, also jumped pin 4-13 for 36 minutes. However, the steering is still locked, and The immobilizer is still set. I am unsure of the meaning some of the data PIDs I am seeing in the smart Box module due to lack of service info. I will attach screen shots of the data that shows some questionable pids. I suspect the ID code box got wet, however this vehicle states it is awake, and everything powers on correctly. any guidance on helping me interpret some of these data PID’s would be a HUGE help. Additional info: there are no Immobilizer faults stored in any module, The ECM was replaced at some point before I ever saw the vehicle. I wrote the VIN and have done the 36 minute 4-13 pin jump multiple times. The security indicator is blinking KOEO. Attached are my Smart Key Module data PIDs (Note I didn’t include every data PID. Only PIDs That threw up a red flag to me).
Have you tried to do a smart code reset?
Yes, the smart key module/ certification ECU was replaced due to corrosion from water intrusion. I also have reset the module and re-registered a master key. The ID code box sandwiched between the HVAC assembly and firewall has not been replaced yet.
Check comm w/ power steering ecu Pretty sure power steering ecu needs to have "handshake" procedure with Id code box and immobiliser ecu.
Thanks Chris, I will check that tomorrow. I don’t have any faults for loss of communication with any module, but I will check.
I'd try and do another smart code reset. I've noticed some things handshake with others when you do it.
Check the steering column control module. I've fixed a ton that blow a fuse. The first thing that should happen when you enter the car with key in hand and hold your foot on brake and hit start is you should hear the column unlock. That must happen first or nothing else will power up.
It’s not unlocking but everything does power up. The steering lock appears to be staying locked due to the immobilizer being active.
Did you try wiggling the steering wheel to see if the stg will unlock when pressing the Start/Stop button?
Nothing helped. Scan data posted above shows it is being commanded locked.
Does the Smart Unlock on the doors work (lock doors and wait 60 sec then touch door handle)? If this works, then new key fob is properly registered. If so, then maybe steering lock ECU is not unlocking. This must unlock before crank signal is sent to ECM.
The fob unlocks everything fine remotely. Also data posted says Master key “yes”. I have not yet checked the smart unlock so I will do that tomorrow. I know the steering lock is definitely staying locked. I just don’t know why. I don’t think the water level got that high. The steering lock is reporting to be awake but staying locked.
When you say you replaced the smart box. Is that the same as the certification ecu?
Yes that is correct. Part number 11 on this diagram.
If that was submerged in water. Pin 17 at the cert. ecu is a lin line to the steering lock ecu and 29 is the command to turn the actuator on I, believe? Connector is D64 at cert ecu. Maybe those wires coul be an issue?
It’s certainly possible. I will check tomorrow. Thank you. I was blessed with 6 vehicles that were flooded. Most 2017 or newer. I am down to 3. it’s been one hell of a diagnostic experience to say the least. My concern with that is the certification ECU clearly states ”immobilizer-set” and “steering locked-set” in the certification ECU data stream as seen above.
Looking at the "unlock and lock request receive" PIDs on picture 6. The "unlock request receive" is supposed to say OK w/ key on. According to the manual, thats only if the cert ECU sends the command to unlock.
Would also check to see if the engine ecu sees the vehicle in park. Because there is also a shif lock control ecu thats under the center cosole that reports to the cert ecu. I believe it reports to the cert. ecu if the veh. is in park. Just another area that gets flooded.
Yes brake lights work
Benjamin, hav the carpet and sound insulation been removed ? If not I would do so as the sound insulation will never dry out otherwise, and there’s bound to be corrosion to the wiring connections. Regards Dave T...
The remote unlock on the fob is not related to the Smart Entry or Smart Start. It is a separate code.
Been a couple of years since I went to school for this, but two of the letters are important and the 3bit code is what is sent from a module. I'll see if I still have my training manual for it, but the steering will have to unlock before it will start.
Cycle driver door ajar switch on/off rythmically by hand. You may then hear the steering lock bar motor move to the unlocked position.
This one is resolved. After studying the vehicle I decided the water level likely made it to the steering lock actuator. The steering lock was replaced and the registration procedure was performed. This allowed the vehicle to start and run. Thank you everyone for your help.