Feels like a misfire?

Vehicle is a NON ecoboost AWD

Customer complaint is hesitation while accelerating. Vehicle was taken to another shop and had spark plugs, C.O.P boots(maybe), air filter replaced & fuel injection service done. Customer also believes problem may of gotten works but is unsure.

I’m able the verify customer complaint. The vehicle has a stumble like a misfire(I think anyways) when driving. The problem happens only around 20-24 MPH and around 40 MPH give or take a few MPH. Problem also seems to be more noticeable when vehicle is fully warm. When driving the vehicle you have to give it light throttle for the problem to occur. If you give it WOT the stumble will not happen or if you do like a passing a car event, the problem will not occur. It happens on a flat road and up a hill. Never happens if you are coasting. Around turns or going straight.

Checked systems for codes and had none in PCM, but had a C1137:64-60-Reverse Gear Switch & U0401:68-AB-Data Received From ECM A Is Invalid for the ABS module. B1218:00-0A-Transmitter ID Code & B10D7:8F-08-PATS Transponder for BCM II. U0422:00-2F-Recived Invalid Data From BCM for IPC. B137F:17-0A-Steering Wheel Left Switch Pack for steering column control module. These codes don’t seem to be related to the current situation. Recorded engine data and analyzed after a test drive. Did not find anything out of the ordinary. Test drove vehicle several times to confirm that vehicle has indeed a misfire or so I believe. Also misfires seem to be random and not related to 1 cylinder. Performed visual inspection of engine and found Throttle body is dirty and intake boot clamps were not tight. Tightened clamps and retest drive and no change. Removed front row spark plugs and did find plugs gaps are at the end limit of the gap. Plugs are Motorcraft and platinum. Retest drove vehicle several more times and recorded engine data. Nothing seems out of place. Checked for TSB’s and none relate to this concern. Tested ignition coils current ramp with a pico and all coils seem to be good(sorry did not save the wave form, but wish I did now). Performed KOEO fuel pressure test and have 58 PSI.(specs call for 58 PSI KOEO/KOER) Performed fuel injector test and readings were all over the place. Allowed engine to fully cool over night and retested injectors. Injector tested more stable next morning. Results are as followed. Injector 1. 23 PSI drop, 2. 22 PSI drop, 3. 24 PSI drop, 4. 24 PSI drop, 5. 25 PSI drop & 6. 26 PSI drop. Performed test twice and got damn near same results. At that time I had sold the customer injectors and also re gaped the plugs. Got everything back together and did my basic engine data analysis since I had the intake off and all was good. Test drove vehicle again and problem is still there. I went next door to our transmission shop and they test drove it. They didn’t believe it was a transmission shop. So now I scoped the primary side of the ignition coils. The all looked the same so I only saved the one cylinder but in the picture I had something that looked funky to me. Honestly I’m no expert on ignition coil analysis. I also disconnected the AWD system and tried to manually shift the transmission at different RPM’s and that did not make a difference.

I am hoping someone can take a look at the scope capture and tell me if what I am seeing is fine or if there is a problem. Also hoping that someone could help give me some direction here. NOTE: The first pic is of the car idling. The second one is when to problem occurred at 20-25 and 40 MPH for your reference and the last two pictures are just to show you what I'm looking at. I also included the pico captures for anyone that wants to review them. They are all of cylinder #2 even they are numbered 1-3. I just wanted multiple recordings. 

UPDATE: Using the snap on verus pro. I Checked mode 6 misfire data before test drive, during test drive twice & after test drive. While never shutting the vehicle off. All 6 cylinders read zero counts of misfires. I recorded air/fuel sensors, & short/long term fuel trims. Fuel trims never went past +/- 5% during stumble event. Air/fuel sensors were reading around +/- 200 mA. (I don’t really know how to use wide band oxygen sensor on a test drive effectively yet for misfires, so I don't know if they will be useful to someone else). I then recorded transmission data. During the event I noticed that the TCC slippage actual RPM would go from like 420 RPM’s to 5 RPM’S and continue to fluctuate from -7 to 120 ish RPM’s during the stumble event. TCC slippage desired RPM would drop to 20 RPM’s at about around 14-16 MPH accelerating and stay their till I reached cruising speed or even a deceleration cruising event. When the vehicle was cruising, desired and actual were at 0 RPM’s. I can assume from my knowledge of transmission that this is TCC locking as it should. When I gave the vehicle gas the TCC slippage actual RPM would go to 200-250 RPM’s and be pretty steady. This would be were the TCC is releasing and free spinning I could assume. Now at this point I’m thinking maybe the transmission shop might have been wrong or maybe this pid’s just are not accurate. So after grabbing a monster energy drink and watching funny videos on Youtube, it downed on me that if this vehicle is stumbling then engine RPM’s would probably be affected also. So I re recorded the transmission data, but this time I added the engine RPM’s and vehicle shift points.(so I could tell when the vehicle was shifting) Test drove for about 5-10 minutes trying to get the vehicle to stumble as much as possible. It’s snowing here in AK so traffic is nightmarish for test drives. I reviewed the engine data again and found that every time the vehicle stumbled the RPM’S seemed to dip also slightly. At first I wasn’t sure if it was just nervous foot, but then I remembered that I was accelerating during this time. I then added the TCC clutch slippage actual RPM’s again. I noticed that very time the TCC slippage actual RPM’s dipped in a none transmission shift condition and during the engine stumbled event, the engine RPM’s always seemed to dip with it. To me that seems like I’m in the right diagnostic funnel but I wanted someone else opinion. Cause maybe it is just me wanting this to be the problem and I want to be $5000.00 sure that this is the cause.

NOTE: I still need to get the cylinder balance test data again, re record primary ignition current and voltage. Then maybe try to disable the EGR but I figured this was a good sopping point for me today. 

Last update: So what I did was get to the transmission connector and de-pin the TCC. I then wired up a test light to the TCC pin. For safety reasons I put a fuse inline so in case if something worked loose or anything went wrong that the fuse would blow at the battery. I then test drove the vehicle and to my surprise the shudder was gone. I then drive the vehicle several more times while recording engine load, calculated load, throttle position & AWD command %. I then reinstalled the TCC wire and test drove the vehicle and the shudder came back. I also recorded the same engine data as mentioned above. I then compared those 2 data sets and found that they were damn near close to each other. The reason for this was I wanted to make sure that same test conditions were the same other then the TCC. This made me confident to call the transmission. Unfortunately we don’t do transmission work at this shop except for the basics and the customer decided to not go ahead with the work so I can not confirm this was the actual problem other then I was confident. DO take this with a slight grain of salt as I can not confirm the repair if you come across this exact same problem. Do take note that their was no TSB’s or to my knowledge any pdates for this problem. I do believe that the TCC would have a slight lock up that was enough to cause turbulence inside the combustion chambers