Choosing J2534 equipment

Steve Owner/Technician Indiana Posted   Latest  

I currently have a Autel Maxiflash Elite J2534. I just started Reflashing a couple weeks ago after a 4 year hiatus. I have very little reprogramming experience, as I usually just ship it to the dealer, but that has proved frustrating for both myself and my customers. I am inquiring as to what you experienced programming guys would recommend for Asian and Domestic programming. Is the CardaqM the best choice for a small shop? Any and all input is appreciated.

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Arsalan Mechanic
District of Columbia
Arsalan
 

Hey Steve, You will get too many response here depending on what you need it for and what kind of vehicles you work with, My best option for you to purchase DrewTech Cardaq +3. (In My Opinion)

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Brian Manager
Michigan
Brian
 

My vote would be CarDAQ-Plus3, and maybe a RAP kit for some of the makes you don't regularly cover.

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Rusty Owner/Technician
Massachusetts
Rusty
 

Another vote for the Cardaq plus 3

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Kyle Owner/Technician
Nebraska
Kyle
 

I run a cardaq M. It does everything we need it to and have ordered the mega can add-on. We do run ODIS, ISTA, WItech and majority of OEM without issues.

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Alireza Owner
California
Alireza
 

I only have experience with Domestic vehicles. Autel Maxiflash is a very good piece of equipment but you might have some difficulties programming GM online SPS (CarDAQ is a better option in that regard). Ford IDS clearly requires VCM but Autel is as good as CarDAQ for FJDS. You might need a DRN Emulator or Micropod depending on what application you use for Chrysler programming.

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Paul Technician
California
Paul
   

I use the Snap On Pass Thru Pro IV, Which is the same as the Cardaq +3. I have used it on Ford, GM, Chrysler FCA, Nissan, Toyota, and Honda.

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Andrew Diagnostician
New York
Andrew
 

I started with the autel j2534. It was pretty good, but left me stranded a few times. I bought the cardaq plus, and later a plus 3, and I've not run across anything I couldn't do. I mostly do j2534 reprogramming with it, not oe scan tool use though. The plus 3 is supposed to cover a lot of oe r2r software, and I've been meaning to play with some of it.

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Ali Diagnostician
Texas
Ali
 

Ford, gm, nissan, land rover and many other manufacturers VCIs are always a copy of bosch latest VCI. Go with bosch. Cardaq +3 is another great tool.

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Davon Owner/Technician
Kansas
Davon
 

Another vote for Cardaq +3. I have a Snapon Pass thru pro 3 which I believe is the same device. It works great on domestic and the only Asian I have done is Honda. The reason I would go with Cardaq instead of snapon is because if you ever need tech support it seems like Snapon is just kind of one more person you need to talk to before you get back to the Cardaq team.

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Zachary Mobile Technician
Texas
Zachary
 

To echo what others have said, Cardaq 3+ is a great option and I believe currently the only aftermarket one validated for Nissan Consult R2R. I love my Cardaq. That said, if I had it all to do over again, I'd probably make my first purchase an MDI 2. Factory device for GM but will also function as a J2534. Essentially the same hardware as the Mastertech II but with GM specific firmware. Best…

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Jon Owner/Technician
California
Jon
 

Hey Steve - I just asked the same question a few weeks ago and I purchased the Snap-On Pass Thru IV which is the Drew Tech Cardaq 3 Plus - badge as a Snap-On tool. (He had one on is truck and I didn't want to wait…) I have already used it and I am very happy with it. Tech support has been quick to answer any of my questions and it comes with a “toolbox” program that has tons of info and links to…

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Steve Owner/Technician
Indiana
Steve Resolution
 

Thanks for the flood of advice. I ordered a Cardaq3 as this seems to be the consensus. Thank you all for the input.

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Bruce Owner/Technician
Pennsylvania
Bruce
 

Might want to consider a VCM3 for ford. FJDS isn't quite the same as IDS. FJDS doesn't support all can buss speeds on a ford, It can also be used as a backup J2534 pass through. What about a maintainer? I use a 100 amp with amperage display. I get cars in from body shops and other garages all the time and the batteries are always half kicked and pull 65 - 75 amps when hooked up and have to wait…

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