Overheating Ford 1.6 EcoBoost
Hi guys.
We have this 2013 1.6 Eco boost Escape in. We replaced head gasket and thermostat about 6 weeks ago. We had the head surfaced and new head bolts etc. It had came in then for overheating and misfiring. #1 cylinder was taking in water and misfiring. Got towed in yesterday overheating again. When we got to it the engine was cold but the temperature gauge was pegged hot. Coolant level was low because the customer had taken the cap off when hot and it sprayed everywhere. Anyway we topped it up and bled it. We took the CTS connection off and cleaned it and the gauge went back to normal. But bleeding it it overheated. It set a code for the valve that keeps the coolant in the block until it heats up. So we replaced The bypass valve. Bled it and still overheating. My techs calling thermostat, which was replaced with a New Napa thermostat. It's a 4 hour job to replace it.
Has anyone had cooling overheating issues with these? Not a lot on line about them. We have Identifix, Mitchell, Alldata and IATN. Spent a lot of time on these sites. HELP hopefully someone has ran into this. TIA. John.
I will install a dealer thermostat have been in your sitaution 2 times one ford escape and 1 infinity g35 both the fixe was dealer part we try 2 after market thermostat with no luck . not worth it
I agree with Joel if it is a 4 hour job then fit genuine
Before replacing the thermostat, maybe use an airlift (vacuum evacuation) tool to refill the engine with coolant. It sounds to me like there is a ton of air left in the system and it is preventing good circulation.
Unfortunately, dealer parts seem to be the best way to go. Have had literally hundreds of bad aftermarket stats over the years. When a job calls for more than a couple of hours, OE parts are going in. Helps mitigate the frustration.
I will second the Air Lift suggestion for getting the air out of the system. Some engine designs don't purge well on their own.
I would recheck your bleed procedure, the workshop manual information is pretty specific about multiple cycles to purge remaining air. That being said, which DTC did you get and which valve did you replace? I have seen some engine issues with cracking at the top of the cylinder wall, that was mostly 2.0's If you pressure test the cooling system overnight are you getting coolant in the cylinders?
John, You may want to read up on this system. It is not like other vehicles. There is a 4 phase approach to warming up the engine employed by the PCM. The thermostat's effective open temp is manipulated by how much and when coolant is applied to it. This system can scrub 10 degrees off it's operating temp in seconds. I printed the information on how it works and attached it. While I agree that
Hi Guys, thanks for all your input and thoughts, When the car came in it had code 26B7 coolant bypass valve which we replaced and it fixed that problem Tech put another thermostat in, another Napa one. He bled the system and did an Airlift using the vacuum tool a few times. We ran it and let it cool down several times. I road tested it 4 times, the gauge sat at 1/2 and everthing was fine until
John, At this point I would suspect compression / exhaust gasses getting into the cooling system. Back when I was gathering tool ideas, a guy in Pendleton, Oregon showed me an invention he made. He modified a pressure cap with a fitting. He attached this to a hose that came into the passenger compartment. On the other end was a valve when switched would let the pressure out of the system into
Guys, we have an update. We rebled system yesterday, this morning the level was still normal. We let it idle for an hour and all was ok. I took the car for a road test on the freeway, 15 minutes into road test the dash beeped, I looked at my scan tool, coolant temperature and cylinder head temperature were climbing both at the same rate. within a minute they were reading 125-130 degrees C, the
did you install genuine thermostats already and lift vaccum fill coolant ? the best way I have found to find issues like the one you mentioned is doing leak down test , fill complete reservoir and you see bubbles during leak down , I will recommend to drive the vehicle with scan data power balance test to find out wich cylinder is dropping should be one even if you do not feel it misfire and
Hi Joel, we have fitted 2 Napa thermostats and we have vacuum lifted the coolant 2 times. We will do a leak down test. Thanks for info, John
there is your problem my friend napa thermostat, I was messing all day long with infinity 06 g35 could not bleed the sytem over heated all day playing with it vaccum lift , and I got the one from the dealer boom in less than an hour done . I have relaized when calling for support to identix , the first thing they tell you is use oem genuine parts 99% of my problem have been solved with oem
Hi, I would install an OEM thermostat. When the engine overheated while you were driving and you stopped and raised the hood, the fans were running, was the air coming out of the radiator hot or cold? Cold would indicate a flow problem, hot coolant not flowing from the engine into the radiator. Hot would indicate an actual overheat problem, hot coolant flowing into the radiator but not cooling
Inconsistance the heater was not blowing hot ath times , my lower radiator hose was cold , boiling over the coolant
In John's post that I replied to he stated he still had heat when the sensors and gauges show the engine to be overheating. I wanted to know if the radiator was hot too or just the engine.
CHECK THE COOLANT SHUTOFF SOLENOID FOR BEING STUCK CLOSED Start the engine. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature. Visually inspect for coolant flow in the degas bottle. Is coolant flow present? Yes Check for coolant bypass valve operation(next step) No INSTALL a new coolant shutoff solenoid. COOLANT SHUTOFF VALVE is located near the thermostat Wires are violet/orange and
Hey guys thanks for all the advise. What we did on Friday was installed a new OEM thermostat. Before we installed it I did an old school test of boiling a tin of water and submersing the Napa one first. It opened partially about 98-100 degrees C. It closed about 92 degrees. I then tested the ford thermostat it was wide open at 95 and closed at 80 degrees so opening sooner and staying open
John I feel your pain, yes do a leak down test, but even a leak down test may not pick up a hair line crack that only opens up when hot. If you do not find a problem when doing a leak down test then drain out half the coolant and run the engine with about 50% coolant left in the block (not for too long as you do not want to seize and cook the engine) but just long enough to get enough heat to
John, Bummer, not interested in kicking you while down...just a few thoughts. First I am far from an expert on Ecoboost, just what I have researched and tested. If I recall correctly, the only Ford Factory recommendation I have seen for head issues is replacement. Dirty valves? Replace head. Needs valve job - replace head. Needs surfacing - replace head. Also factory procedure looks
Wow links formatted weird in last post??? Be sure to scroll to see entire post. Thanks!
If the coolant shut off valve is stuck closed this will prevent circulation through parts of the cooling system. It is possible. when the valve is open, there should be visable "flow" or turbulence in the coolant bottle.
Hello, This seems like a crazy issue you are having. I would really start to wonder if it is actually overheating and its just not a glitch or something with one of the many sensors in this cooling system. After some poking around on identifix and some escape forums this seems like it is a very common issue with the 2013s with 1.6L. A lot of angry people on the forums that are having this issue
Guys I'm sure now we have the answer. We did a combustion gas test in the coolant bottle and it turned yellow right away. We also did a coolant pressure test over night and #1 cylinder had coolant in it. Same cylinder at the beginning of this nightmare. Our thinking of this is the crack only opens up when the car gets up to a certain temperature and under certain load conditions. The head was…
Great to hear you have a direction, not so good that you are out of pocket. Would it be worth you contacting your liability insurance company and pled negligence and have them cover you.
Thanks Maurice. I think by the time our deductible etc is taken off I don't think it would be worth it. Cheers.
Guys thanks for all your input on this. We ended up putting in a used lower mileage engine into this nightmare. No charge to customer. We were out 21 hours and $1600 cost for engine and other materials. If we ever get another I would buy a new bare cylinder head from Ford. They are around $400 and have machine shop transfer valves etc. Cheers. John.