How far do I go with this? (06 CR-V compressor, NOT broken)
Hello Diagnostic Network,
I'm posting concerning this 2006 Honda CRV. 179,341 miles. SHSRD68536U406582.
We are replacing the compressor because the clutch is inoperative due to electrical failure. It is a Keihin HS-110R so it's either original to the vehicle or a match for the original unit.
Please help me determine how far I should go with service work. There are no severe indicators of a debris problem, but a portion of the dessicant bag is darkened (picture attached.)
Dessicant appearance falls in between visual standards indicated by TSB 09-076 (written for … CR-V's) for a slightly contaminated dessicant and a heavily contaminated dessicant. TSB guidance for repair work differs for slightly vs heavily contamianted dessicants.
I opened the compressor up. The scroll is NOT broken. It is not damaged. No severe wear observed to the rotating or stationary scroll elements. No debris present in the compressor from a failed forward bearing.
I drained the compressor. I did not observe any metal fines in the refrigerant oil.
Again, that dessicant bag is darkened. Black at the bottom, but mid to light gray as you move up past the halfway point of the bag, and it looks clean at the top.
No debris in the filter assembly that goes below the dessicant bag, but the filter assembly itself is grayed.
Swabbing various ports and line ends yielded similar results. Dark gray or black from the condenser outlet port. Other swabbed points ranged from barely affecting the swab to light gray or medium gray colors. I guess this represents metal fines even though I did not observe metal in the oil.
I could pop test the condenser a hundred times without getting any debris. Again, the scroll elements are not broken or damaged so there would be no debris pieces to find via a pop test.
This post implies that some metal fines are to be expected in scroll systems. Is this true?
For conscience's sake, I desire to neither do too little nor too much to this vehicle. Compressor replacement fixes the electrical problem (and the worn clutch issue as well.) Drier dessicant replacement is logical on a maintenance and proactive basis.
I see a range of options:
1. compressor & drier dessicant. 2. compressor, flush or replace condenser, new drier, and (if applicable) high side line if it has a muffler. 3. compressor, flush or replace condenser, flush all lines and hoses (barring a line with muffler), and flush evaporator. Of course this results in a fresh oil charge too.
Flushing would be done with HECAT equipment.
I do not consider refrigerant oil replacement to be a standard practice outside of break-down or contamination. And this is a limited use vehicle. If we fix it to a 60k mile standard, that's probably more than the client will use this vehicle for from this point.
But I want no part of a repair that lasts a year or two and goes south.
How far should I go with this? I welcome (and request) opinions and/or education.
We care about our clients. I do not want to over-spend this man's money or under-fix his vehicle.
Thank you in advance.
Our supplier wont warranty any compressor with out a new condenser on the RO(Worldpac, I think? Maybe not them,I forget who exactly) regardless of reason for failure. Makes the answer simple for us.
Rudy, I am glad to hear from you. Thanks. I do see reasons to replace the condenser (or at least give it a good HECAT flush.) I remain curious though whether that will put me where I've done enough for the client. I know you are skilled so I take interest in your warranty statement. I wouldn't make a client buy an unneeded condenser in order to get a warranty on the compressor, and I'd buy…
I always install a new receiver/drier when replacing the compressor. The additional cost is usually negligible compared to a $220-$265 compressor. – Dave
Thanks Dave. It's absolutely getting a new drier no matter what. I'm mildly interested in whether or not it's necessary to flush or replace the condenser. If we flush it, we'll hit it with HECAT equipment. I'm especially interested in whether or not I need to go after the rest of the system (flush evaporator, replace any line(s) with muffler(s), flush remaining lines and hoses). The cost goes…
For what it's worth, I replaced the one on our personal CRV years ago for electrical failure. The oil was clean so I did not proceed with any type of flushing. I replaced ours with the 10PA15C compressor which I believe to be a more reliable design, did have to run a slightly longer belt. Probably has 150k on it since then.I would replace the condenser myself with the buildup you where showing.
I appreciate this, Chad. Thanks. Am I interpreting correctly that your CR-V is in that … range and you took a scroll compressor out of it? That's interesting that the 10PA15C bolted in. Do recall (if you looked at it), what the dessicant looked like? Whether we flush or replace the condenser is a fairly minor decision for us - all things considered. We don't need much more data to…
Ours is an 05, it went from blowing cold to nothing. Once I determined it was the clutch and not the usual black death I decided to replace the compressor only, didn't mess with anything else. I know this is not something I would do on a customers car. The 10PA15 bolts up the same just had a slightly larger pulley.
Chad, thank you for the response and those details.
If I didn't hear the compressor run even for a bit I'm putting the entire required system on to be able to offer my customer warranty on that compressor. Our supplier gives lifetime warranty on the parts if you buy the compressor and the kit that they sell with it. The only vehicles I'd doing just the compressor on is my own Accord…it will happen this spring…compressor works perfect and is cold…