Dodge Sprinter parasitic draw
I have this Sprinter, which has a 1.2 amp draw. I heard a humming sound coming from the egr valve, so I unplugged it, and the draw drops to .9 amp. If I unhook the battery, the draw goes away until next key cycle. I studied the wiring diagrams in Mitchell, and the the diagram there is completely wrong, showing no power source at all. I studied the diagram in Identifix, and found the egr is powered by the engine control relay. If I unplug the relay, the draw goes away until next key cycle. Plugged in one of those piggyback type relay pinout tools, and found the relay control signal, coming from the wiper/turn signal/engine start module has a perfect ground koeo, but key off goes to .6 volts, until the circuit is interrupted by pulling the relay, or the battery terminal. If I unbolt the fuse box from the steering column, the relay still hold power. The wiper/turn signal/engine start module appears to be part of the fuse box.
Am I missing something, or is this just a faulty wiper/turn signal/engine start module?
Sounds like we are dealing with the same problem, I have spent over 20 hrs trying to figure this one out! try disconnecting the black connector on the instrument panel, make sure the ecm is shuts down ( egr is not power up) and then cycle the key see what happens? I have condemned the instrument panel currently waiting for new one. I could bore you with the hours of testing I have done but I am still trying to see straight after going cross eyed on this one.
Right now, this one keeps the cluster active for 30 seconds, then it shuts down with the driver's door open. If I shut the door immediately, it shuts down after 30 seconds, then powers right back up, and does that every 30 seconds. It had one of those aftermarket fuses that light up when they blow in the #1 spot, and with that fuse installed, the cluster cycles every 30 seconds with the door open, or closed. Obviously that fuse is causing an issue, but not all of it.
I wasn't able to get much testing done yesterday, because it is too tall for my bays, and it rained most of the afternoon. This morning, I found in the Mitchell diagrams, that the ecm relay is grounded by the pcm, which I did not see on the factory diagram in Identifix. I unplugged the pcm, and the .6 volt to the relay went away, and the draw went away. I decided at that point, that it was time to check power and grounds to the ecm, but Mitchell didn't have a pinout diagram. I just looked around under the dash for a minute, and something caught my eye in the fuse box. Fuse #1 appears to be one of thse aftermarket ones that light up when blown. I check the fuse diagram in Mitchell, and no mention of a different fuse in that position, so I grab a new one, plug it in there, 30 seconds after shutting off the engine, the cluster shut down, and the egr valve quit making noise. Replace it with the original fuse, and the cluster stays lit, and the egr stays powered up. replace it with the new fuse again, and the system is behaving.
This one is very confusing, because fuse #1 in the #1 fuse box is for lighting, and has a lamp relay one one side of the circuit, which is not being energized with either fuse in there, and the other end of the circuit goes nowhere with the turn signal switch in the neutral position, so it would appear that there is no way for it to cause an issue, but it does.
When I first saw those fuses hit the market, I thought they might cause issues, but this is the first time I am seeing it.
I thought I had it fixed, but now it only has a draw with the door shut. If I leave the driver's door open, the cluster shuts off after 30 seconds, and the draw goes away. If I shut the driver's door after shutting off the engine, the cluster shuts off after 30 seconds, then turns right back on within a second, and the draw remains. This makes absolutely no sense to me that the door position would have an effect on it.
Update: I was never able to solve this one. After 2 hours, I tried to get more time, but couldn't get ahold of the customer. He finally showed up today, and I told him what I found. I informed him that if he left the door open after shutting down the engine until the cluster went to sleep, then shut the door, there would be no draw. He decided to live with that, rather than paying more diagnostic time.
He did inform me that this started after taking it to a dealer for a recall, and they claim to have not needed to do the recall, but they removed two diodes that they claimed weren't needed. I'm wondering what they removed.
Wish I had more info to add to this to help build this site up, but this is one of those that should probably go to a specialist, but there's none nearby.