Ford vcm II
Hi everyone I'm new to diagnostic network so please go easy on me I have the opportunity to buy a Ford vcm ll for $500 on craigslist but I want to make sure I not buying a clone tool because those go for $150 on Ebay. So my question is how do I make sure this is a real vcm ll or what happens if is stolen because I don't want to get in trouble so please feel free to leave your comments
The boxes look like the ones they are shipped in. I don’t think they track them like they used to. The software is licensed now not the VCM
if you search the internet for the differences of real vs clone vcm's i think you could find pics. the differences are internal. i found pics years ago, before i purchased. i think that the clones have less circuitry and poor solder. the original vcm have some gold inside. It was a long time ago when i searched so don't quote me on that. good luck. i think G Truglia from tst seminars may have
Hi Selvin: Disclaimer: My company distributes diagnostic equipment (though you are not in my territory). A few thoughts come to mind. 1: I've seen counterfeit tooling come from reputable distributors. Hell, I've even seen them come from the manufacturer's own internal distribution channel. (Note: I used to work for Vetronix & then Bosch before my current employer.) The reputable
It appears to be the real deal. I don't think the clones have the VOID sticker on the end. The clones do not come with the manual. The best test is to try and program an older ECU like a … vehicle. They require an 18v signal on pin 13 to program. None of the VCMI or VCMII clones have this. Drew Tech has J2534 test software that can test the 18v signal. It is called the J2534-1 analysis
Hi Selvin. My recommendation is to make a purchase through an authorized reseller in your area. If the price looks too good to be true, it usually is. As far as the packaging, labels and every external physical detail, those are all easily 100% reproducible and challenging to identify as being authentic or cloned, even down the fonts used on the labels. Other than inspecting the internals…
I would ask a few questions of the seller and see how forthcoming he is. "Who did you get it from?" "Did you file the warranty registration?" "Can you show me the original bill of sale?" e.g. If they are unwilling to answer those questions, that is a red flag for sure.
I believe that you can purchase one from your Ford dealer for about $200 more, so why bother?
dealer employee cost is about $900, retail is $1600 when I purchased mine last year