Parasitic Draw - Honda

Bill Owner/Technician Michigan Posted   Latest  
Resolved
Electrical
2008 Honda Accord EX 3.5L (J35Z2) 5-spd (88E5) — 1HGCP36888A005235
Battery Draw

I have a .55 amp draw (550 ma) - the draw is present still 2 hours after turning off vehicle. One of my technicians originally diagnosed this issue as a window master switch problem. He noted that after disconnecting the master switch the draw was not present plug it back in draw is there again... 

We replaced the master switch with genuine Honda part - no change same .55 draw is present :(

I have isolated the draw by voltage dropping fuses - Fuse 15 under hood junction block is the culprit - Fuse 15 feeds the master switch. I have double verified that unplugging the master switch stops the draw with both new and original part. Further more i have cut only the WHT wire pin 13 at the master switch (this is the b+ from fuse 15) and the draw is gone...

Is there something further down the line possibility a voltage output or feed that leaves the master switch? or do i have 2 failed parts??? 

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Brandon Diagnostician
Pennsylvania
Brandon Default
 

Be sure to view the inputs on the scan data. I’ve seen many times, a stuck switch

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Jim Owner/Technician
North Carolina
Jim Default
 

Bill, the "Hands Free Link" is a common problem on these. Is it equipped with that option? We have unplugged them for customers that don't want to replace them,

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Chris Diagnostician
Maryland
Chris Default
   

Good morning! I am just throwing some things out there but it is possible that something else is keeping the master switch and BCAN circuits awake so it never times out? Honda has a bulletin called "Excessive parasitic draw? Check if B-Can system is awake" and it has some decent info that may help. Maybe try to see if you can look at any of the data pids for the locks, windows and doors to see…

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Albin Diagnostician
Washington
Albin Default
 

Leve the load on for about half an hour, then take a look around the inside of the vehicle with an IR camera. That should make the search for the load (heat) pretty easy. When you disconnect the master switch, you also kill the load to the other three doors.

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Steven Instructor
Georgia
Steven Default
 

Could you depinn each terminal one at a time from the backside of the master switch and see if the draw goes away? Leave the main power connected. Once the draw goes away from removing that certain pin you would then know what circuit it is on.

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John Diagnostician
Texas
John Default
 

I would recommend OEM diagrams for this application. With the draw going away with the connector unplugged makes me think that your courtesy light may be a problem. Especially because it is spliced in after the connector.

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Roger Owner/Technician
Utah
Roger Default
 

You must have a current draw that the white wire is sourcing through the switch. What B+ power is coming out of the switch that the white wire (pin 13) is sourcing? I wish I had an interface to loan you...

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JJ Technician
Massachusetts
JJ Default
 

Would checking voltage drop across the switch work? Back probing the switch at the white wire, and then checking each circuit coming out with the other probe. The actual voltage value probably wouldn't be of much use without knowing resistance values inside the switch, but I would think you should see 0mv on any circuit not consuming power. If it's another switch down the line that is stuck, I…

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Eric Owner/Technician
Wisconsin
Eric Default
 

The question is, is the switch itself the source of the draw or is the switch keeping something else awake that is the source of the draw? Simply removing the fuse is not a good enough test to eliminate the draw and neither is disconnecting the window master switch. There are many other components that get power from fuse #15, one of those could be the source of the draw. Disconnecting the…

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George Diagnostician
British Columbia
George Default
 

Hi Bill try unplugging the HFL module to see if draw is gone that may be keeping can network alive

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Bill Owner/Technician
Michigan
Bill Resolution
 

Thank you to all that responded with your ideas! Brandon your comment really got me thinking.... after further inspections with the scan tool we found a fault stored in body electrical (#B1127 door lock key cyl switch) I will admit neither me or my technician had checked for faults on this car previously..... easy to overlook on a simple battery draw complaint / 12 year old car- lol... Looking…

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Phillip Diagnostician
Alaska
Phillip Default
 

Right on i love it when people over come a brain scratchier

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Benjamin Owner/Technician
Georgia
Benjamin Default
 

Yes, seen this many times on Hondas. Have seen on older ones where shotty body shop repairs damaged key cyl switch. Saw another one duct taped to the back of the door handle from another poor body shop repair.

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Rob Owner/Technician
British Columbia
Rob Default
 

Benjamin: I noticed in the scan data that the OP posted that the DRIVERS DOOR LOCK KNOB position is also showing ON. Is this normal?

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Benjamin Owner/Technician
Georgia
Benjamin Default
   

the pid he circled is for unlock, the pid above that is for lock. The pids should be switching when physically locking and unlocking the latch. No, his condition was not normal

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Rob Owner/Technician
British Columbia
Rob Default
 

I'm asking about the PID four positions below the one he circled. The door lock knob one.

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Benjamin Owner/Technician
Georgia
Benjamin Default
 

The first two below the circled pid is for when the lock switch in the master switch is being momentarily depressed. The last two pids are the lock knob switch. The lock knob switch and the key Cyl switch are two different switches, but part of the same unit, knob is wht pin and yel pins, and key cyl switch is brn pin and org pin. key Cyl switch is momentary and knob switch is either 1 or 2 per…

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Bill Owner/Technician
Michigan
Bill Default
 

Rob, that is normal condition knob switch is going to be either unlocked or locked either as this input comes from the actual position of the interior manual lock button. the key switch should only read when key is being turned to that position either lock or unlock...

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Geoff Diagnostician
Hawaii
Geoff Default
 

I like it when they are fixed before I get to read them, that way I learn something. I was gonna guess one of the lock actuators was stuck. Glad you found it. Aloha,

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Edwin Mobile Technician
South Carolina
Edwin Default
 

Bill..just out of curiousity if the power doorlocks were in the lock position would you still have a draw?

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Bill Owner/Technician
Michigan
Bill Default
 

Edwin- great question. This particular vehicle only experience the battery draw if the vehicle was NOT locked. If i locked it with the key fob it would power down and go to sleep.... That was another weird twist we realized later on in our testing sorry i failed to mention that.

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Edwin Mobile Technician
South Carolina
Edwin Default
 

Thanks Bill...I thought that might have been the case. Great find on this by the way. I like your thought process!

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