Two Diagnostic Issues Resolved - 08 Grand Caravan
The shop replaced head gaskets because of coolant leaks and then they could not test drive the vehicle because the throttle wouldn't open.
APP1 ranged from .445v to 4.565v
APP2 ranged from .205v to 2.27v
TPS1 was at 4.9v and never moved
TPS2 was at .002v and did not move
The Throttle Body connector fell off when I pulled on it and I could not push the connector all the way in.
I sprayed some WD40 in the connector and then I was able to push the connector all the way in to seat properly.
I was then able to rev the engine and the codes were cleared.
There was a C2116 ABS Pump supply low volts and I found the ABS Pump fuse laying flat in the fuse box.
I gotta ask ya Ray, when it's that easy, and the shop couldn't figure it out, does it make you want to just sit down and cry at the state of things?
Hi Geoff, the shop calls me almost everyday, so it's good, usually easy, income for me!
The shop owner has 2 shops, so they can do the money making work and they farm out the harder stuff to me.
Harder stuff like plugging-in connectors...LOL. I had an equally hard one today. Needed a battery. Apparently some other "mechanic" could not figure this out. Yup, Some mobile guy. I know in the "real world" all the programmers/diags are mobile, but here in Maui, the mobile guys are the ones too unskilled to work in a shop. And of course they work cheeeeap. And you get what you pay for.
Glad you have steady work!
I think I can top that one. About a year ago I took in a car from a local shop for an airbag light. I think it was a nissan but can't remember for sure. Anyway, I connected a scanner and pulled codes. There was one code stored that said "connector not fully seated". I stared at the screen for a minute and thought to myself that it couldn't be that easy, could it?
Well I got access to the sdm under the dash and saw that the connector didn't look straight. I pushed it in with my finger and heard a "click". Turned the key back on and the SRS light went out. Cleared the code and all was well. Charged my standard diag fee. I'll take those all day. :-)
I just had something similar on a towed in '11 with a 3.6L.
Complaint - Battery light on.
Back story - Another shop had replaced the alternator for reasons other then battery light.
Diag process - Connect booster pack - drive vehicle into bay - KOER push in on C2 connector at alternator engine tone immediately changes - inspect connector and terminals.
Root cause - The unnecessary, only engineered to annoy techs and make their life more difficult "Red" connector lock is MIA....OH I guess it is necessary ;)
Last week got an emergency call to check out a Toyota from another shop. They had replaced the alternator and battery but the vehicle still was not charging.
Someone had ran a jumper from the A/C relay to the alternator during a previous repair but this shop didn't know anything about it, but did mention the A/C quit working as well
Replaced the missing alternator fuse and Whoa-la!
If only they started with a wiring schematic
Replaced overloaded relay and A/C came to life.
I had a 1995 Suburban come in with the blower inoperative. Other shop had already replaced the blower motor, fan switch and resistor. The blower high speed relay looked like brand new so they never tested it, besides, they said that doesn't cause no lower blower speeds. The relay was mounted upside down and had filled with water. Corroded the inside of the relay to nothing. Installed new relay right side up, cleaned connectors and hmm, everything worked. The low speed power flows through the closed contacts of the non energized high speed relay, those contacts were laying in the bottom of the relay cover.