Ford trans issue
I have had this truck for about a year and is my daily driver. It has an extremely hard shift from 1st to 2nd... I mean a shift that will snap your neck and shake your insides. I am amazed it hasn't had driveline or gearing problems.
While installing a new flywheel I pulled the gov'nuh body off and did some snooping around... having shied away from auto tranny's, I don't have a lot of experience with them. The fluid was not burnt, smelly nor any obvious shavings or more than normal fine particles you see on a regular filter change.
Having read and saw a YouTube, I then figured I was highly qualified to investigate... broken springs, scored pistons etc. So with a big lump in my throat, abated breath and wide eyes I dove in... to find... nothing! At least what I thought as nothing. No broken springs or sticking pistons etc. Since I had already torn it down I couldn't justify not doing nothing to at least try and make a difference... so I attempted (did) add some tension back into the springs by the tried and true method of reverse pressure; (stretching)... calibrated by the vast experience I now possess from the internet and my trusty mechanical expertise. (Pist... hey, I did mention this was my personal vehicle, right?)
Anyways... the somewhat less hard shifts I had before from 2 -3 & 3 -4 are now manageable, not quite normal but acceptable. The 1 - 2 shift tho is horrible and at times (not so often) the 2 - 1 shift is bad as well. I also notice while rolling up to a light the trans slips into neutral coast and shifting out back into 2nd when in that 15 - 20 mph range the engine needs to rev up, kinda of like a stall torque converter would do (I imagine, since I have never driven one) to make the shift back into gear... at slower speeds it tends to shift out of coast into 1st pretty smoothly most of the time.
I can mitigate the harshness somewhat by feathering the acc pedal at the approaching shift point... and if I manually shift down to second at takeoffs it will start in 2nd, bypassing the 1 - 2 shift.
I can say tho... after a year like this... I approach each shift like I am going to tell the wife to shutup... oops. Did I say that out loud? 🤔
Anywho, that's what is going on in my world.
Any thoughts on the matter? Michael (with 2 black eyes in Texas).
PS: I did find a tsb on shifter control module and having a poor ground, so I have already added an additional ground wire with no results.
You probably should have "shotgunned" an accumulator boost valve and solenoid control block. If you were really ambitious, a new accumulator block too.
It sounds like you just took it apart and looked at it. I'm not a trans guy either, but the one time I tackled the a/t in my own vehicle, I got the complete kit from TranStar and the books they have for the model of trans it was. transtar1.com/products/rebui… And it worked great when I was done. So my advice is start over with a complete kit and manual.
These ones have some common valves and solenoid block failures, that is why I suggested them. The valves are really easy to see the wear due to leaks if you know what you are looking at. The solenoid block is mostly something for experts with flow test equipment.
I hadn't seen any suggestions. Maybe send this info to the OP?
valve body wear can cause this problem. I would image the truck has high miles on it and the trany too. the other thing is to check the torque of all the valve body bolts. Sounds like it needs a rebuild with all new springs and maybe a valve body.
Is there an aftermarket valve body assy available? Vendor info? & truck has about 240k, engine has been replaced with a pull out... don't know about the trans. Last owner had the same issue for a long while.
i've built alot of e40d transmission you've got pressure problem what ive found is the pcm are usually bad the Capacitor usually start leaking and if bad enough damage the circuit board. if the solenoids aren't setting any code that would be my next step hope this helps
The front valve body is where the accumulators and accumulator regulator valves are. They're aluminum and do tend to stick. You can replace them with steel valves and there is a tool that can help restore the bore if still sticky. Also, you may be operating in FMEM, with elevated pressures attempting to compensate for a problem even without codes.