Known good cmp &ckp wave form??
I'm in need of or does someone have a known good waveform for cams vs crank correlation.
I don't have one but is it misfiring or just flashing the check engine light and saying it is misfiring? If so have you done a clear all adaptive in the computer? If the learned crank cam variance is corrupted it will think it is misfiring.
Looked everywhere for CKP but I have the CMP sensor relationship. No help if it slipped at the crank, but at least you can verify bank-to-bank. If it idles smoothly (not misfiring at idle), MAP of around .9 volts or even up to 1 volt would indicate crank/cam timing is correct or very close. Tight valves and timing errors quickly push Honda MAP over 1 volt.
This car has a double tdc sensor, but is only on one head. I’d start by checking cam timing by looking through both of the little upper timing cover access plugs. If timing is correct on all three marks both cams and crank,(assuming key ways aren’t sheered which is highly unlikely) check you map sensor voltage at idle warmed up no loads. Should be .85v. if it’s closer to 1v check valve…
Exhaust valves have been adjusted to .013 intake valves were in spec. I have replaced coils,plugs, I have checked injector firing and coil firing with a scope and visually, I have done a smoke test found the egr leaking badly, replaced the egr and cleaned the ports, no other vacuum leaks, I have checked timing per the tdc arrow and upper timing marks it shows to be in time. Vacuum gauge shows 18…
Did you clear the adaptives or learned memory? Adjusting the valves, replacing spark plugs, fixing a misfire require a reset of the memory. I had a CRV years ago that I did a valve cover gasket and adjusted the valves. It was not even running badly before the work. When I started it ran perfectly and the check engine light was flashing saying cat damaging misfire. Had to reset the computer and…
It has had oem coils installed and it does have ngk plug also. Will pull a map reading later today.
Do you the mode 6 test Id for the misfire counter, I looked for Id 50 but told me it was invalid, I have tryed to test for volume of the fuel, with the pressure gauge with the regulator disconnected it holds a steady 41+psi if I try to do a wot snap with no change on the gauge
Check the C105 Power/Ground Bus connector for the coils. Its near the fenderwell, and prone to corrossion. Also, check the egr passages on the intake.
Inside of plug looks brand new have cleaned the egr ports and it doesnt have the top plate intake style
Can you put an amp clamp on the ground for the coils or at the fuse for them. I looked at the diagram and the fuse is fuse 11. If you can see all the coil current ramps, you could compare the ramps to each other and decide if one is missing or not correct. Fuse 11 in the under dash fuse panel. If that looks ok you could use the scope to run a relative compression test. To see if you issue is…
Went ahead and did a cylinder drop test and disconnecting cyl4 no change in rpm or engine roughness, all other coils change, verified coil and plug are good, plugs are layed out from left to right 4,5,6
Injector on 4 fires I even had the intake off and saw it also verified with a scope while it was running, swapped coils with cyl5 same problem
Did you do a leak down test on #4 cylinder when you had the plug out? I assume you swaped coils with another cylinder and #4 was still dead. If exhaust valve is leaking it would poison the cylinder at idle and cause a misfire. It would be less noticeable at higher RPM.
Possibly bad coils , and valve adjustment , check map idle
Valves are in spec, map is at .9 volts at idle swapped in all new coils becuase it was a known issue in the begin no fix
What is the fuel pressure and volume?, Check for clogged cat
Intake vacuum is 18 to 20 " of vac, fuel pressure is 43 psi and with gauge on and fpr disconnected no drop in pressure when going to wot
check battery voltage , charging volts, grounds , OHM TPS Sweep, check ref voltages