Slow Cranking????? It is fixed!!!
Ok,so new customer to us. 2.5 mths ago customer says car started cranking slow as if battery was low or old,at that time had another shop test starting charging at that time i am understanding they recommended a new battery. Customer picks up car returns next day same issue,very slow cranking. Understanding shop recommended new ignition switch,customer picks up car,calls shop says hey picked up car after hours car still cranks very slow. We end up with car do to no trust,nice gentleman who's daughter drives car when out of state at collage. I get car since i get all problem children,i test battery it test well with carbon pile vat 40,same vat 40 for alternator,its test well.alternator is at 30amps 13.8 at idle.Alternator under load goes 100 amps at 13.1 volts. I feel its the starter due to my own sons honda crv did that and starter fixed issue. I am asking if i have missed something and do not ever like "shotgun cannon of parts". Dan H,south texas or Mr.Hawaii Geoff Welsh i have respect for and ask if anyone could chime in on this and show me if any mistake i have made,btw alternator replaced at local honda dealer 3yrs ago,THANK YOU for any and all input.
I'd check the amp draw on the starter while cranking.I think the VAT 40 will do that. Page 8 of the manual. And maybe the volt drop on the starting system.
If you have a amp clamp just see if you can get a cranking wave form. the pic i uploaded is a bad starter off a 2005 crv. it was just a slow labored crank also. other photo is a good starter, much less noise and normal cranking speed
Voltage drop all connections while cranking. I suspect you'll find at least one that is high. Take off and clean connection and retest. Only if it passes those tests should you move on to compenents
Perform voltage drop tests on power and ground to starter
Common issue, do the testing mentioned above hot and cold, if you find your testing to be starter failure have a denso or honda remanufactured starter only Make sure there is no battery draw
A morning with no energy drink,cant believe i did not think to voltage drop,"good grief"
If you have a VAT 40, which you stated, you can test the starter draw quite easily. Also you can perform a voltage drop of the cables with it. It's still a very, very good tool for these issues. Good luck with the new customer!
Thank you,very nice guy with alot of kids,lol and clean cars he moved here from arizona so no rust!!!yet
Try removing the A/C compressor relay. Have had dozens where the relay sticks and causes it to crank slow or not at all.
Lance, I have had positive battery cables suffer internal corrosion at the cable end, so test voltage drop from the battery post to the battery cable itself. The reading should be less than .5 volts. Next, measure battery/engine block ground resistance by testing the voltage drop from battery negative to the engine block during cranking. This should also be less than .5 volts. With the…
Fix the charging system 1st....Alternator should hold voltage at 14.5 volts at 100 amps ,,,,Measured at the alternator....Then move volt leads to the battery ....Should have close to same voltage (at least 14v) Volt drop all cables ...If you dont know how to volt drop cables then just sub another cable and see if the voltage increases.
Ok thanks to all of you fine men who made me wake up today.Positive cable was unprotected with corrosion at starter from recall work done on cylinder head.Voltage at starter end was 10.2 volts at battery post was 12.9,replaced positive cable with customer asking for oem starter since i was there.Again thank you for all your help and as my wife says along…
...Why does it still say "unsolved" at the top of this ???...Sounds solved to me...Dan H. ...South Texas...
I think the OP needs to click back "into" his top post using the EDIT button.
...Geoff...You're not kidding there...It's all a shortcoming of the way this site is laid out...hopefully it will get better as time passes (I hope)...Dan H...aka Hobbs. ...South Texas...
Pretty sure it's a finished product.
I am not sure what limitation of the site you're referring to? Lance simply needs to upvote and tag any replies that helped resolve the issue with the "Resolution" tag, or he can reply to the top-level post and choose the "Resolution" status for his new reply. I will email him to explain. The way to open/close questions and bounties is detailed on our Help page, and highlighted when someone…
...Tom...Tanks for clearing that up...by up voting (your reply) it all became clear to me...I understand now...Dan H. ...again...
I would do a voltage drop from the battery to starter while cranking. Sounds like the starter isn’t getting the amperage needed to crank over the engine or the starter is going bad.
Looks like you got it. Yep, gotta check voltage drop on all suspect starters. Bad cables seem more and more common these days.
Thanks hawaii,its cold as my ex here,lol
...Revisit this post and do whatever it takes to make it go to "SOLVED"...because I think you have a handle on what's up with it...Dan H. ...South Texas...
Dan.....Maybe Tom or a "moderator" of sorts can monitor such posts and when the problem is solved, they can go into the posting and correct or override the status. This may be necessary when the OP gets held up on the job or simply forgets...Thoughts?
...Samuel...This is something LANCE needs to do...to show it as SOLVED...couple clicks and it's a DONE DEAL...Dan H. ...South Texas...
The standard alternator output at idle is usually 10% of total rated alternator output. I believe that the battery is faulty or there is excessive voltage drop in your cables.
…Lance...Make sure the engine takes less than 90 Lb.Ft to turn it at the crank snout (it shouldn't)...hook your DVOM between bat + and starter input stud and crank it....ANY potential(voltage) showing on the DVOM during cranking IS the Volt DROP of that circuit....try the same at the negative post to the case of the starter,again while cranking....any potential (voltage) showing…