2015 Toyota Venza sunroof initiliazation
The sunroof initialization isn't working. I hear something clicking/noise at the end of 10 seconds but no movement to the glass. The glass will open correctly. When closing the roof glass it stops 6 inches short and will close if you push the switch again. Sunroof motor was replaced with new unit form Toyota. No codes present.
Just to confirm, is this the same initialization procedure you're using? - Procedure A - Turn the ignition switch to ON. - Press and hold the SLIDE CLOSE or TILT DOWN switch. NOTICE: Make sure not to release the switch during the initialization. If the switch is released, perform the initialization again. - The sliding roof glass starts sliding close operation and stops at the fully…
Yes. About after 10 seconds you can hear a noise but no movement from the glass.
Did you make sure the flexible tracks was lined up properly? Sometimes those get eaten with the motor or siezed like a window regulator would.
After the ten seconds, did you continue to hold the button? I had an RX recently that refused to initialize and it turns out I was not holding the button long enough, specifically the TILT DOWN switch in Procedure C.
Try completely closing the glass. Disconnect battery terminals, hold positive and negative terminal ends together for 10 minutes. Reconnect to battery and then try to initialize.
Just wanted to chime in the last time I talked to someone from TAS they told me NEVER to do this. I guess someone blew all the airbags in a car when everything discharged at once. In a recent webinar, I brought this up, and the instructor mentioned using a 10W resistor was a safer option.
Weird. TAS has told me to do this at least half a dozen times specifically for initialization issues and it's fixed it more than once. I'd be willing to bet someone was messing with the yaw rate sensor or airbag ecu during diag on that incident with the airbags.
I can never remember what the resistance is supposed to be. By the time anyone talks to me, it's already been done. I haven't heard of airbags blowing--I'll put that on the list. But a GM trainer--or two--said not to hold the positive and negative cables together. On some versions of OnStar, the vehicle logic is such that it treats this as an accident where the negative and positive cables on…
Yeah it was one of those things I actually wrote down, and figures I can't find the notes. I remember 10 W, but I don't remember the recommended Ω. Maybe 10 W is enough information for the correct piece? Maybe someone else remembers?
You're doing better than I have done. I've written it down multiple times--and forgotten it each time. Next time I have it, I'll make a necklace of the correct resistors and just wear it around for awhile, till it sinks in.
I also do not like to directly connect both battery cables together. I use my 12v incandescent test light to connect the two ends of the cables and use the bulb within the tester to drain residual power. Furthermore, I often wonder if I step on the brake peddle, would also drain the power. Or opening a door and let the dome lights do the same thing. Any thoughts?
I wonder if (on vehicles with Onstar) the ignition switch is off and all doors shut would the Onstar battery still be activated by performing a cap discharge. I found this genuinegmparts.com/pdf/techinfo/b….pdf and it’s got me wondering, because we all do cap discharging from time to time and start stop cars are also going to be more common. I wonder if super caps on…