Exhaust Manifold Bolts And Exhaust Btemp Sensor

Paul Owner/Technician West Collingswood, New Jersey Posted   Latest  
Question
Driveability
2015 Ford Transit-350 HD 3.2L (V 99V) 6-spd (6R80)
Exhaust Bolts And Temp Sensors

Hi Guys, question. what you guys do when you have exhaust manifold bolts break in the head on ford transit with 3​.​5l​.​we work on 90% sprinter but I have handle full of customers who jumped on transit wagon some diesels and some 3.5l eco boost constantly coming in with manifold bolts broken in head and exhaust leak for 3.5l I final bought template from promaxx. works great but still 10 hrs job each side because when try to remove rest of the manifold nut studs break. so what you guys out there do to make job easier​.​Now I have 3.2l dsl with broken egr temp 1 broken in the exhaust manifold. I have replaced a lot of those sensors but always come loose after little fight. but this one the nut broke right off it.i'm afraid if I try to drill out the sensor hold down the sensor tip will fall in the manifold and may end up in the turbo which will turn ugly so I think I should take the turbo off.i have not done turbo on these dsl yet​.​am I looking at more broken bolts nightmare. so what you do cases like this.

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Randy Diagnostician
Glendora, California
Randy Default
 

My friend at another shop does not try to take nuts off . He just cuts the nuts off and removes the manifold. And then worry about studs after manifold is off . He just got the new otc stud extractor.

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Anthony Technical Support Specialist
Kirkwood, Pennsylvania
Anthony Default
 

Hi Paul: For manifold bolts, I know some guys who bend a stick, build up the stud and weld a nut to it. (Using the correct rod, it won't stick to the …t iron or aluminum.) The same concept should apply to your sensor issues. I know others who use an inductive heater to avoid the mess to begin with, when possible. Inductive heaters have come way down in price since I was first exposed to them…

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Paul Owner/Technician
West Collingswood, New Jersey
Paul Default
 

I do use inductive heater but never had any luck with these studs.i been cutting the nut and using chisel the back the nut​.​thats only thing worked so far.

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Sean Owner
Cornville, Arizona
Sean Default
 

I weld nuts to the broken stud with my mig welder all the time. Sometimes takes 3-4 nuts per stud, but it's far easier, and faster than drilling. The heat of welding the nut usually breaks the corrosion bond.

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Jeff Owner/Technician
Flesherton, Ontario
Jeff Default
 

I know your not supposed to weld to a engine . But I have great success with welding the broken stud to a flat washer , then Welding a flange nut to the washer . Let it cool naturally For 5min or so and they almost always walk right out . I switched to this method after being forced to use this method one time with a broken “ Snapon “ extractor .

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Paul Owner/Technician
West Collingswood, New Jersey
Paul Default
 

I have had weld nut on the broken stud​.​but these studs break very easily

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Glen Owner/Technician
Arthur, Illinois
Glen Default
   

A tip I learned from another tech is to take a air hammer with a long chisel and hit the studs in the counter-clockwise direction if possible but either direction works. This breaks the rust/seized to manifold grip(Look for the stud to shift sideways) The stud with nut often turn right out after that.

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Nathaniel Diagnostician
Ashton, Ontario
Nathaniel Default
   

That sensor is probably filled with ceramic, which will be everywhere you don't want it to be if you start trying to beat it down. I'd try sliding a big enough nut down over it so you can weld where it broke off to the inside of the nut. Just fill it with weld. As long as you don't somehow weld to your manifold, the heat from the welding and the larger contact area should do the trick. For…

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Andrew Technician
Norwood, Minnesota
Andrew Default
 

Like the others I weld a nut to broken studs. Works great with aluminum heads as the weld won't stick where it shouldn't, even with studs an 1/8 inch below flush the most I have had to do is open the hole up a little bit with a die grinder. Some take more tries than others, some take a washer welded on first, but I've never had one not come out. For your sensor issue I agree that you need to…

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Sean Technician
Cincinnati, Ohio
Sean Default
 

I don't have access to a welder at the shop I was at, I always heat them up with a torch, cherry red then rapid cool to the touch with water, 85 percent of the time the rapid contraction of the metal is enough to break them free from rust, then I use hand tools to get the loose then switch to air or electric to spin the the rest of the way out

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Paul Owner/Technician
West Collingswood, New Jersey
Paul Update
 

sorry guys I forgot to give update. so I weld nut 4 time and try to loosen it's just kept breaking in pieces.I ended up replacing the exhaust manifold. thank god exhaust manifold bolt came off easy unlike rest of the ford engines.I left the turbo bolted to the DPF just moved it to the side and remove manifold. I wasted more time trying different method but nothing work. next time this happens…

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